Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

38-7 Chairside Concentric Tuning Dial
#1

The glass is cracked on the Concentric Tuning Dial of my Philco 38-7CS chassis.  The easy part was removing but I am not smart enough to figure out how to remove the glass from the bezel.  The part's list shows as one part number so does that mean the glass cannot be changed?


Attached Files Image(s)
   
#2

Please post a photo of the back of the bezel; this will allow folks to see how the glass is held in place.

Theoretically at least, it should be replaceable some way or another.

If nothing else, you could look for and find a 38-7 parts chassis with good glass, and use that part instead.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#3

There is a 'ring' around the inside holding the glass but not a c-clip ring.  Not sure how the ring is held in place but it's not budging even after beating on the glass with rubber mallet.  I can't get anything between the glass and the ring.

Last resort will be to break the glass and see if the ring is removable.  I was hoping someone had changed the glass and could help.

Where do I get a parts chassis?  I haven't found any in my search.

Thanks for the reply.


Attached Files Image(s)
       
#4

Hmmm. I've never had this happen so can't really comment on it. Anyone else is most welcome to chime in...

> Where do I get a parts chassis?

You can start by placing a "wanted" ad right here in the Phorum's Wanted Ads section.

Other sources:

eBay (often too pricey, though).
Parts sellers such as Wilbur Gilroy. Others may be found in the Phorum's Resources.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#5

I only have one set an Airline that had that type of a glass, fortunately it was in fine shape. It may be that over the many years of it's existence that any little gap or spacer that was there has filled in, shrunk, rusted into oblivion. Have you tried carefully scraping along the inner corner of the ring to see if there is some type of a clue concealed to the naked eye. Perhaps that might assist in figuring a removal.

Your photos are good I magnified til I started to lose resolution and I see your point, do you have a source for replacement glass with similar shape?

Paul

Tubetalk1
#6

https://dialcover.com/jmpalm/Inventory.htm

I ordered the glass assuming I was smart enough to replace but I thought wrong.  I'm waiting on the new glass to 'compare' with the existing glass for a clue.  I'll contact jmpalm for any suggestions he might provide.  If he is selling the glass, it must be replaceable.

I've scraped along the ring and the bezel but can't determine if one solid piece or if pressed to fit.  The brass part is one piece.
The fact that Philco only lists one part number for the whole assembly is concerning.
#7

You might try some heat. I would bake it in the oven for awhile to see if the it comes loose while it's hot.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!RESISTANCE IS FUTILE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  
                           /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
                                                     
                                 [Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...on_eek.gif]  Chris
#8

Yes Mark Palmquist might be a good one to ask, and you will figure it out. Btw -I have posed this query the my pals in the New England Vintage Electronics Club, if I get some good info. will let you know.



Paul

Tubetalk1
#9

Got this in my group....maybe helps?

From the responder Tony: "I have a few 38-7's and in order to replace the bulb I remove the tuning and vernier knobs in order to get at the 2 screws securing the brown round bezel. If you pull the tuning knob all the way out, there is a small hole drilled straight through the shaft (may have to press the vernier knob in to see it). What I do is use a small nail through the hole to keep the shaft from turning while using a large blade screwdriver to remove the retaining screw at the end of the tuning knob. From that point you should see the two screws that secure the bezel. Once the bezel is removed, the glass is removed by turning it to 'unlock' it from small keeper pins and pulling straight off. Carefully pull the indicator needle straight off, remove the circular retaining clip from the edge of the dial, and the dial face should come off revealing the bulb at the top."

It sounds like your friend may be at the point where he just needs to turn the glass in the bezel?


Maybe the answer?

Pablo

Tubetalk1
#10

I emailed Mark Palmquist who is sending the glass I need.  He just replied he has changed the glass on the 38-7 bezel before and the part on the back is a friction ring and if I send him the bezel, he will install the new glass, so I'll let experience guide him.

I want to thank everyone for the help.  Glad I found this group and look forward to being a part.
#11

I decided to do the glass replacement myself.  I removed the old glass and found what looked like old black rubber and don't know if it was originally a 'gasket' or if it was some type of adhesive.  I soaked the adhesive with alcohol and removed what I could see. 

I noticed the friction ring was held in place by indentations from the brass piece.  See picture.  I used a 1/16in drill bit and drilled out the indentations, but the ring still wouldn't move.  The drilled holes will not show once assembled.

I then soaked the space between the ring and the outer brass cover with alcohol and finally sprayed it with penetrating oil (PB Blaster) every hour for a few hours and let it sit overnight.  Next morning the ring slid off with a little pressure.

I haven't decided what I'm going to use to replace the old rubber.  RTV or rubber cement.  The ring fits tight, just need something to keep the glass solid.

I want to thank everyone for the help.  Gave me the courage to move forward on my own.


Attached Files Image(s)
           
#12

Congratulations, good job. I'm not aware of anyone I know having ever done that.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN




Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 49-1040
Hello bob, that underside looks like it is all original ! Sincerely Richardradiorich — 02:07 AM
Philco 49-1040
Oh yes, many bumblebees and loktal tubes. The cutout is for the speaker.  Here's a photo from a different set. Bob Andersen — 12:59 AM
Philco 49-1040
Bob; Looks like another "Bumble Bee" special, like my Brand Z T.O radios. Is that section they took out of ...Arran — 12:19 AM
Philco 49-1040
Hello Bob, You are like the home for lost tv's like how people bring pets home ! Sincerely Richardradiorich — 12:00 AM
Philco 49-1040
I thought I had an arrangement to restore this set for a customer but his wife said heck no.  Instead, he gave it to me....Bob Andersen — 10:29 PM
Philco 46-480 Electronic Restoration
I kept working on reassembly this week. I wasn’t able to solder for a few days while it was too cold (single digit low t...jrblasde — 09:27 PM
Atwater-Kent 84, restoration.
Well, powering it up would be too good to be true, and I had that feeling. Before I did, I decided to check the coils...morzh — 06:02 PM
An attempt to remove the Field Coil from a G speaker
Thanks Chas, sure will give it a look!morzh — 03:39 PM
An attempt to remove the Field Coil from a G speaker
Mike, Lookup  murrayatuptown on ARF. Seems he has a dilemma with surplus field coils. Could get lucky and have what y...Chas — 01:26 PM
Atwater-Kent 84, restoration.
Hello Mike, I have not checked to see if my console has a fuse or not and far as sets go I have early 30s General Motor...radiorich — 11:25 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>