Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Sears 6050 Re-stuffing Ecap question still need answer
#1

I am re-repairing my 6050 and someone at one time just threw a 50 uf Ecap under the chassis to replace the 40 20 that was there.

I had started by just replacing the 50 with a new 50 but was still getting a loud unchanging buzzing from the speaker so I ditched that idea.

I have removed the Ecap and have put in the new 47 and 22 Ecaps to their marked terminals but want to make sure I am getting the grounding right.

I have both negatives twisted and going to one of the outer twist lock terminals of the can. the can says negative is the can so is this correct?

Lastly, Where they put in the replacement cap is now not needed so I just clip it out and don't need to do anything else right?

Here are some pics:


Attached Files Image(s)
               

Times I have been electrocuted in 2021
As of 1/01/2021
AC: 4 DC: 1
Last year: 6
#2

Looks like that 50uf is in backwards. Make sure you didn't make that same mistake in the restuff.
#3

I thought that too but Thats how the other one was in. I'm guessing thats why it was making all that buzzing but I turned it around and it still has the loud buzzing. Hoping the re-stuff will fix it. All wires and caps were replaced so I don't know what else it could be.
I'm not good with trouble shooting as can be seen...

Times I have been electrocuted in 2021
As of 1/01/2021
AC: 4 DC: 1
Last year: 6
#4

If it is any help, an electolytic stuffed in backwrds is likely to blow open or short depending on the fusisters put in place. Best replace everything in voltage divider network and get a handle on current draw with a good old fashioned DC ammeter to find the gremlin. Work from the output stage "backwards" to the antenna. Best of luck.
#5

Can you look at the chassis and tell us which version you have?

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...017327.pdf

John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
6TPZ and 5TPO Radio Help
1 - 0v - correct 2 - 0v - correct 3 - 0v - --------------------- both 3 and 4 should be the same. Check L2 for being ope...morzh — 05:15 PM
B&K 1077B no video
I'm going to get back into it tonight. but I disconnected the 2 main resistors off this supply going to different parts ...TV MAN — 04:04 PM
6TPZ and 5TPO Radio Help
Sorry. The test points are as follows: 1 - 0v 2 - 0v 3 - 0v 4 - 12v 5 - 0v 6 - 11.9v 7 - 12v 8 - 12v 9 - 12v...R3Sons — 02:09 PM
6TPZ and 5TPO Radio Help
OK, so 18 and 19 as they should be. What is "everything else?" Try to be more specific in your descriptions:...morzh — 12:44 PM
6TPZ and 5TPO Radio Help
Yeah, I'm still on 5TPO. Sorry, my bad, points 1 and 2 should be points 18 and 19 (easy mistake  :think: )  X7 is shown ...R3Sons — 11:42 AM
Philco 40-120C Filament Wiring
Hi folks, I'm in the process of restoring a Philco 40-120C and I'm finding the wiring to be a bit puzzling. According to...bluecap — 11:28 AM
462ron
Hi Levi, here’s just a thought. Most radios run the oscillator higher than the dial setting. Say you set your radio to 1...462ron — 10:10 AM
1930s Stewart-Warner Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
Another Update: I found a couple of damaged coils inside this radio that might have something to do with why this radio ...captainclock1988 — 10:51 PM
6TPZ and 5TPO Radio Help
If you are still on 5TPO, you lost me there. What X7? What Points 1 and 2?morzh — 08:37 PM
6TPZ and 5TPO Radio Help
Quick progress report: X7 is broken. Only one leg soldered, the other missing and the diode is cracked. I've replaced...R3Sons — 05:05 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>