Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco Model 46-350
#1

Hello All,

This is my first phorum posting. My thanks goes to Ron Ramirez for his prompt and friendly help in getting me registered.

This is my first radio restoration project and it has been a challenge to say the least. After doing a lot of reading, I did what the books say and replaced all of its electrolytics with polyester caps. I also gutted the multistage can and clustered the appropriate axial lead capacitors inside. Finally, I replaced all of the tubes. When I powered it up with a variac it actually worked to an extent. Not very loud but it worked. After sitting on the bench for a number of months though, I could no longer get the thing to pull in any sort of station; just a hum that goes across the whole band. Now all I'm getting is an oscillation-type howl across the band.

In trying to check this out, I've encountered another puzzle which has to do with its 3-gang variable capacitor. In following the schematic, the lead from C13 goes to the C10 and C9 combination. On C7, which is the other variable capacitor, its lead goes to pin 6 of the 1R5 converter. Here's the problem: Between the bottom of the variable capacitor, and the chassis is a component connected between C7 and C13. It's a tight spot and kind of hard to see but I can make out what looks like a very short resistor with a green and brown band. However, the schematic shows this to be C11, a 350mmf capacitor. Which is it? Has anyone encountered this situation before?

Thank you for whatever advice anyone can provide.
"Dashpot"

Thanks for whatever advice anyone can provide. I'd really like to get this set going again
#2

Hello and welcome!

Which schematic are you using? I'm looking at the original Philco service info for Model 46-350 and I am not seeing the part numbers you mentioned. For example, the tuning condenser is C402, not C7, C9 or C10.

Are you using a Sams Photofact? If so, I cannot help you as I do not have the Sams data.

I do not see any 350 pF cap in the front end of this receiver.

Maybe you could scan and post the schematic you are using, or email it to me...

mr.philco AT yahoo DOT com

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#3

Hello Mr. Philco,

Thank you for your response. I hope I am doing this right.

The schematic I'm using was purchased from Antique Electronic Supply a few years back and is a John F. Rider reprint (at least that's the copywrite name at the bottom of the pages). Along with the schematic and alignment data, it also came with photos of the top and underside of the chassis. If you need me to, I can try to get my schematic working copy scanned and sent to you as an attachment.

Thanks again for your help.

Dashpot
#4

Well, now, this is interesting.

I took a few minutes away from college studies just now and looked to see if I had the same Rider's schematic as you. Turns out I do; it's on Philco page 15-5 of Rider's Volume XV.

And it gets more interesting...

The Rider's schematic calls for a 350 pF cap while the Philco data calls for a 1.5 pF cap in this position!

Philco made some ceramic capacitors after the war that look similar to resistors.

If you haven't messed with it already...I would leave it alone, and look elsewhere for your problem. Those ceramics are usually very reliable.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN




Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
An attempt to remove the Field Coil from a G speaker
Gary I in fact did, on a 38-14, I think, where I had a speaker with the dead coil. Well...it kinda worked. Kinda, be...morzh — 10:38 PM
An attempt to remove the Field Coil from a G speaker
Mike, what ever happened to that plan you had to try using a rare earth magnet to magnetize the pole? This looks like a...GarySP — 10:25 PM
RCA T62 is playing.....
Beautiful set.morzh — 09:07 PM
An attempt to remove the Field Coil from a G speaker
Well....here it is. The green stuff. Unfortunately, probably penetrates deep. I opened the top layer and saw that: ...morzh — 08:58 PM
Philco 91 Restore Code ??
:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: Really nice workmanship!!! Top of the chassis looks great. Sorry about the long winded e...MrFixr55 — 08:09 PM
Philco 40-120C Restoration
Thank you for your reply. I will check voltages on the other tubes, look at resistor 23 and cap 25, etc. If all else fai...bluecap — 07:58 PM
RCA T62 is playing.....
Nice looking set great save. DavidDavid — 07:48 PM
Philco 89 indicator light.
Hello Jim, I have done several 89s. The trick is to move the drum in or out on it's shaft. You will need to loosen a set...dconant — 07:36 PM
An attempt to remove the Field Coil from a G speaker
MrFixr Yes, it is my plan to go with 45rpm spider if I go that far. No, the pole was not left-handed as I unscrewed ...morzh — 07:14 PM
Philco 40-120C Restoration
Change the tube. Check the tube's bias network. Are any other tubes experience the drop or just this?` Is resistor 23 OK...morzh — 07:09 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>