Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

39-6 power tranny question
#1

KThanks for help on this!
Here are the facts so far...at some point, electrolytics were replaced (although not to spec on all).  She passes the dim bulb test ( power consumption is 30 w and fired up with 40 w bulb).  It powers up but weak and has low volume.  Good news is I have a 38-12 in working order which has identical tubes to swap.  My concern is with some initial testing.  Attached is a picture of the Rectifier and tranny connections from the schematics.  My primary winding has continuity as do the filament pins.  When I read from the Rectifier plates I should get 1050 ohms.  BUT, I only get 745.  Checking from the green center tap to pin  2 is 380 and pin 3 is 360.  This seems too low but looking for your expert advise.
Mark
#2

Hi Mark,
>at some point, electrolytics were replaced
So point is a bit vague post a pic to give us a better idea of the time frame. Values aren't very critical and manufacturers try to use the smallest value possible as it's cheaper. I would probably use a pair of 10mf @ 450v just for convenience. With that being said on older ac sets from the late 20's and early 30's that use small value caps like 1 and 2mf caps are more critical and should stick to the original values.

>When I read from the Rectifier plates I should get 1050 ohms.
Would lose any sleep over it. Check to see if the AC voltage from each plate to the chassis, should be fairly even within a few volts. Generally I look for signs of over heating like wax under the transformer on the cabinet or the transformer get hot w/o the rectifier tube plugged in after 5 or so minuets.

> Checking from the green center tap to pin  2 is 380 and pin 3 is 360.
To have the same number of turns from center to each end the inside winding is going to be shorter than the outside as it is wrapped around the inside. Longer winding = higher resistance.

> but looking for your expert advise.
[Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...on_lol.gif]  Just a hobbyist.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#3

Thanks Terry,
Could you elaborate more on the plate AC test?  I haven't done that yet. 
Thanks for the help.
#4

Just measure the ac voltage from the each of the rectifier plate to chassis gnd or the power transformer center tap w/ the rectifier tube out. We're looking the see if the two voltages are fairly equal. Like what you did with the ohm measurement from ct to each end just we're looking at voltage not resistance.

If the voltages are unequal by 10% or more it may indicate shorted turns in the hv winding. Same w/ transformer heating in a relatively short time.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#5

Thanks! I'll try it out and check back!
#6

[attachment=14748]Looks like my AC tests are good!  I guess I can move forward.  Hopefully my picture attachment made it across, if not, let me know.  Terry requested pix of the capacitor replacement, they are not brand new and out of spec ( the large one upper left is a 40mfd and although I'm waiting for my enlarged schematics from Mr Swark, I see nothing close).  I'll replace all caps and check resistors and reach out if I get stalled.
Thanks for all the incredible help on this site and any further thoughts, please let me know.
Now comes a Miller Time,
Mark
#7

The ecaps are form the '60s, time for replacements. Also not seeing much rubber wire just the ac cord and on the if transformer.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
91H Code 126 Restore
It does not require taking apart. Find an opening, any gap that would lead inside, where the resistive element and the ...morzh — 04:59 PM
Philco 70 antenna lead
I agree. From the ones I've worked on its always been that green corrosion that causes the coils to open.Jim Dutridge — 04:34 PM
91H Code 126 Restore
Well I'm making good progress. All the bakelite blocks have been recapped.  I found that using a heat gun and skinny ...RealRider — 02:35 PM
Philco model 60
>>and found that the field coil is bad. Should be 1140 ohms, tests at 1.1k ohms. You have one stringent crit...morzh — 02:07 PM
Philco model 60
Yes I was there. I got some real bargains there. Plus a Zenith 7G605 clipper that I have been trying to find for a fair ...Radios1340 — 01:46 PM
A Marconi model 86
I have a Stromberg, one of the early ones, seems early 30s. This is what I call a back breaker. None of the early Philc...morzh — 08:28 PM
A Marconi model 86
A backbreaker.....PaulPaul Philco322 — 08:12 PM
A Marconi model 86
>>What a behemoth! A Juggernaut.morzh — 07:47 PM
Philco 70 antenna lead
I am not sure I understood about the coils and the mush. I looked an more than one coil in 20, 70, 90, 60, Zeniths and ...morzh — 07:46 PM
A Marconi model 86
:e_biggrin: What a behemoth!  I hope the final result is as much a quality sounding example!  Keep us posted on your pro...GarySP — 07:32 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>