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Fisher 700-T questions
#2

Devin

Welcome! Allow me to answer your second question first.

Regarding the function switch, I had the same problem with my 700-T as the switch in mine was also frozen. My solution: I applied liberal amounts of PB Blaster to the function switch shaft at the retaining ring - let me borrow your photo:

[Image: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Adp6j...20Ring.JPG]

I did this several times over several days. Each time, I clamped a pair of vise grips onto the end of the shaft and carefully turned the shaft each time I applied PB Blaster.

After several applications, it began to work properly.

Once it loosened up, I worked in some 3 in 1 Oil and let it go.

It is still a bit stiff but it now works properly with the knob, with no need to resort to vise grips to turn the switch. I use my 700-T as a daily driver in our living room, mainly as an amplifier for our HDTV and occasionally use its FM function as well. It's been a year or so and the switch has not frozen up again.

Now to your first question - yes, C20 is bad. You should replace all of the electrolytics in the power supply and audio amplifier sections, especially the two electrolytics that couple the output transistors to the speaker outputs. That's what I did with mine, and it continues to play well (it didn't work when I bought it).

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN


Messages In This Thread
Fisher 700-T questions - by SolderSplash - 12-21-2015, 02:13 AM
RE: Fisher 700-T questions - by Ron Ramirez - 12-21-2015, 07:08 AM
RE: Fisher 700-T questions - by Ron Ramirez - 12-21-2015, 07:18 AM
RE: Fisher 700-T questions - by John Bartley - 12-21-2015, 08:53 AM
RE: Fisher 700-T questions - by SolderSplash - 12-22-2015, 11:14 AM
RE: Fisher 700-T questions - by SolderSplash - 12-28-2015, 07:52 PM
RE: Fisher 700-T questions - by Ron Ramirez - 12-28-2015, 08:04 PM



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