04-26-2019, 10:29 AM
The Merit part number you had provided not only checks with PTOP but also the Merit catalog that I provided a PDF link to...
If there is a still visible part number on the 1st IF run down the same Merit catalog for an Admiral cross to Merit or reference the Sams for the IF #1. If there is a mistake in the Sams odds are it is not twice.
Alternately, use a modulated signal generator, isolate with 50K and force 455 through the 1st IF plate connection. Use a VTVM/DVM with a detector probe or a scope w/detector probe to confirm that the IF is indeed 455-6 or whatever.
Some data is amiss so one has to fall back to basic info to confirm the missing part. To seek a generic part the circuit detector type needs to be known to determine 4-5 or 6 wire connection. Then it is a matter of the correct frequency.
There are other ways to determine the IF, less convenient, a bit risky, all depends on what you have in "instruments" meaning something that can be pressed into service...
Take a pix of the sams in the 2nd IF area, import into computer and draw red notes around what is missing. Do the same but of the chassis same area. Post the pix for further help...
The pix of the chassis will determine the IF mounting.
Most experienced collector/restorers keep a box of IF's, a match for it can be done by eyeball. Measured on the bench with a good chance that it will work...
I am a bit flummoxed that the frequency is not correct, wrong data somewhere.
GL
Chas
If there is a still visible part number on the 1st IF run down the same Merit catalog for an Admiral cross to Merit or reference the Sams for the IF #1. If there is a mistake in the Sams odds are it is not twice.
Alternately, use a modulated signal generator, isolate with 50K and force 455 through the 1st IF plate connection. Use a VTVM/DVM with a detector probe or a scope w/detector probe to confirm that the IF is indeed 455-6 or whatever.
Some data is amiss so one has to fall back to basic info to confirm the missing part. To seek a generic part the circuit detector type needs to be known to determine 4-5 or 6 wire connection. Then it is a matter of the correct frequency.
There are other ways to determine the IF, less convenient, a bit risky, all depends on what you have in "instruments" meaning something that can be pressed into service...
Take a pix of the sams in the 2nd IF area, import into computer and draw red notes around what is missing. Do the same but of the chassis same area. Post the pix for further help...
The pix of the chassis will determine the IF mounting.
Most experienced collector/restorers keep a box of IF's, a match for it can be done by eyeball. Measured on the bench with a good chance that it will work...
I am a bit flummoxed that the frequency is not correct, wrong data somewhere.
GL
Chas
Pliny the younger
“nihil novum nihil varium nihil quod non semel spectasse sufficiat”
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