07-12-2019, 07:41 PM
I'll see if I can get a couple of closeup pics of the dial cord that may help.
My tuning cap is movable for vibration but is very stable. I used, as I said, the typical rubber grommets from Renovated Radio. However, the bushings are longer than the thickness of the grommets. So, I used 2 1/4" aircraft washers between the tuning cap and the top of the grommet. These fit over the bushing and take up the slack, forcing slight compression of the grommets to stabilize the tuning cap. Seems to work good.
Yes, the speaker is isolated from the chassis with 3 rubber grommets. Again, I used the same rubber grommets. In this case, the bushings are not too long. 2 are on the edge of the speaker attached to the front surface of the chassis (these use a little different bushing arraignment). One is under the field coil portion of the speaker. The speaker is steady, but there is enough movement to absorb some vibration.
I'll see if I can get some closeups of the various areas you are questioning.
My tuning cap is movable for vibration but is very stable. I used, as I said, the typical rubber grommets from Renovated Radio. However, the bushings are longer than the thickness of the grommets. So, I used 2 1/4" aircraft washers between the tuning cap and the top of the grommet. These fit over the bushing and take up the slack, forcing slight compression of the grommets to stabilize the tuning cap. Seems to work good.
Yes, the speaker is isolated from the chassis with 3 rubber grommets. Again, I used the same rubber grommets. In this case, the bushings are not too long. 2 are on the edge of the speaker attached to the front surface of the chassis (these use a little different bushing arraignment). One is under the field coil portion of the speaker. The speaker is steady, but there is enough movement to absorb some vibration.
I'll see if I can get some closeups of the various areas you are questioning.
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