01-06-2011, 01:02 AM
I have to disagree with Terry about that high of capacitance, I would not use 2x 47uf caps as a replacement. The first cap may be way too much for the 80 rectifier tube, or so I have heard on the other forum.The first cap is usually the one you need to get close to spec. The second cap is less critical. Personally, I would try to get caps closer to spec. Right now, I have temporarily installed 2 10uf/450 caps.
The can is isolated from the chassis, you are right. A floating ground or B-
The cap lead going to the 80 rectifier will be the 8uf cap, the remaining terminal is the 4uf. Make sure that your can remaons isolated after you restuff the can.
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From what I see, that loose wire' is your coupling to the center terminal on the volume control. Part #3 on your list.
Loosen and turn your volume control 180 deg. so the terminals are on the other side. Then wrap that loose wire 2 times around the wire going to the center terminal.
BUT, please verify that your "loose' wire is going to the coil terminal shown in the second photo. It sure looks like that's where you point it out to be.
[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/d/131995-2/gimmick.JPG]
[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/d/13199...mmick2.JPG]
I see some added caps to the blocks. I assume that you will rebuild your blocks for a neater appearance. They are not hard to do and there is documentation on what is inside them on your diagram. It took me about half an hour to do all four.
Done right, you don't need to contend with messy tar. Cut the fine wire leads on the lugs, the wires that come from within the block. Warming the block just enough to release the tar, then you push it out in one piece.
Chuck's site has a good tutorial on how to do them.
You don't need to unsolder the block. Remove the hold down bolt, then you can flip the block on it's side for warming. I use s small embossing heat gun, it has a 3/8" nozzle. You could use a blow dryer with a concentrator tip. Do not melt the tar, just get the block hot enough so it releases when you push it out.
[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/d/13200...+plugs.JPG]
Hope all this helps you or anyone else who stops by
Good luck.
The can is isolated from the chassis, you are right. A floating ground or B-
The cap lead going to the 80 rectifier will be the 8uf cap, the remaining terminal is the 4uf. Make sure that your can remaons isolated after you restuff the can.
=================================================================================
From what I see, that loose wire' is your coupling to the center terminal on the volume control. Part #3 on your list.
Loosen and turn your volume control 180 deg. so the terminals are on the other side. Then wrap that loose wire 2 times around the wire going to the center terminal.
BUT, please verify that your "loose' wire is going to the coil terminal shown in the second photo. It sure looks like that's where you point it out to be.
[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/d/131995-2/gimmick.JPG]
[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/d/13199...mmick2.JPG]
I see some added caps to the blocks. I assume that you will rebuild your blocks for a neater appearance. They are not hard to do and there is documentation on what is inside them on your diagram. It took me about half an hour to do all four.
Done right, you don't need to contend with messy tar. Cut the fine wire leads on the lugs, the wires that come from within the block. Warming the block just enough to release the tar, then you push it out in one piece.
Chuck's site has a good tutorial on how to do them.
You don't need to unsolder the block. Remove the hold down bolt, then you can flip the block on it's side for warming. I use s small embossing heat gun, it has a 3/8" nozzle. You could use a blow dryer with a concentrator tip. Do not melt the tar, just get the block hot enough so it releases when you push it out.
[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/d/13200...+plugs.JPG]
Hope all this helps you or anyone else who stops by
Good luck.
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