01-23-2008, 12:12 AM
Hi John,
I am one that will restuff whenver possible
Of course the bakelites ar a must. Trying to replace those with a terminal strip and rewiring seems like it takes more time to do it that way.
I have got where I don't even have to unsolder the other terminals on te block. A little massaging of the block, turning it around, a little gentle heat from a small blow dryer, the tar plug and caps come right out.
The cardboard paper foil caps are not bad either. I have one several sets to try to keep the original look. I did a Fairbanks Morse last year, It had the original caps with the FB name on them. Slipping the cardboard tube off the cap is not bad. A little heat, pull on one of the wires and it slides right out.
I install a new cap with a touch of hot melt to hold it in place inside. The fill with a wax.
Even though supposedly no one looks under that chassis ( some do) I know that they are there, and that's all that matters.
What I will do it make a small pencil note under the chassis saying the caps were restuffed on XXX date, so the next owner doesn't just cut the old (restuffed new) out and replace. Keeping the diagram and repair notes with the set also helps.
As for the resistors, I have found some to be higher than original. If they are way out of line I will replace.
I just redone a Model 20 (got it fired up tonight) it had two resistors that were almost 40% higher. I left them in place though to see how the set functions. These are the old style of dogbones where Philco used only one or two colors, and had the old lead ends on them.
Keep the old parts with the set, in case someone wants to restuff. Once you throw them away, then it would be hard to find the authentic ones to restuff.
Take care and good luck with your set.
Gary.
I am one that will restuff whenver possible
Of course the bakelites ar a must. Trying to replace those with a terminal strip and rewiring seems like it takes more time to do it that way.
I have got where I don't even have to unsolder the other terminals on te block. A little massaging of the block, turning it around, a little gentle heat from a small blow dryer, the tar plug and caps come right out.
The cardboard paper foil caps are not bad either. I have one several sets to try to keep the original look. I did a Fairbanks Morse last year, It had the original caps with the FB name on them. Slipping the cardboard tube off the cap is not bad. A little heat, pull on one of the wires and it slides right out.
I install a new cap with a touch of hot melt to hold it in place inside. The fill with a wax.
Even though supposedly no one looks under that chassis ( some do) I know that they are there, and that's all that matters.
What I will do it make a small pencil note under the chassis saying the caps were restuffed on XXX date, so the next owner doesn't just cut the old (restuffed new) out and replace. Keeping the diagram and repair notes with the set also helps.
As for the resistors, I have found some to be higher than original. If they are way out of line I will replace.
I just redone a Model 20 (got it fired up tonight) it had two resistors that were almost 40% higher. I left them in place though to see how the set functions. These are the old style of dogbones where Philco used only one or two colors, and had the old lead ends on them.
Keep the old parts with the set, in case someone wants to restuff. Once you throw them away, then it would be hard to find the authentic ones to restuff.
Take care and good luck with your set.
Gary.
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