[auplater]

Got the caps, cloth covered wire, etc. for the chasis go today... already recapped C127 & C126 with 10uF 450V caps.

"I usually do a complete "point-to-point" rewire under the chassis! It takes time, but I do carefully mark all wires incoming from the mid-chassis area, and completely remove that part of the chassis. I then carefully remove the variable tuning cap so I can replace all the old deteriorated orig rubber-grommets located under the tuning cap, & replace with new..."

I figured you'd say that. Most of the wiring looks OK, after doing the electrolytics and the paper caps, testing the tubes, etc I'll see if it'll play, using the light bulb/variac method. If it runs, I'll re-install it and leave the complete re-wire for a snowy winter week or two.

I made new chasis-to-cabinet washers out of a gum rubber sandpaper cleaner using a hole saw and drill press, to replace the old dried out ones. Works great!
[Image: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/aup...rubber.jpg]

Got the restore items from Joe Coco @ WJOE.com. Quick response and reasonable pricing.

Question for Ron et. als.: On the pwr. supply cap C123 (dual 8uf/10uf) it looks like the positive leg is tied to chasis gnd for the 10 uF section as per the schematic and what I see under the hood. Am I reading this right? Just wanted to make sure, since elsewhere, C62 has the negative side tied to chasis gnd, for all 3 sections.
[Image: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/aup...16_PWR.jpg] [Image: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/aup...6_PWR2.jpg]

Thanks for any help you can give.

More pics to come. l8tr

John L.