Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Starting 37-116 Deluxe Restoration
#25

Mondial Wrote:Nick, next time to make removing the insides from the electrolytics easier, heat the can with a heat gun. This will melt the tar and the insides will just slide right out.

morzh Wrote:I have an old wine cork screw, I screw it inside the cap stuffing, heat it with a heatgun, and then pull. The more you heat it the easier it is, just to hold it you might need a glove.

The corskscrew idea is neat.  Although just the thought of heating it gives me flash backs of hot melted tar all over the first time I tried to restuff a bakelite block.  My own fault for letting it get too hot.  Since then, I found it's generally just as easy and less mess to chisel out the tar on the blocks using a small jewelers screwdriver.  I can just vacuum up the solid chunks with my shop vac and clean out the remainder in the block with q-tips and thinner.

Well I think I now have all of the caps and resistors in the IF, power, and rear/audio sections replaced.  I almost forgot about that capacitor pack on the top side in the IF section.  I took that off and pulled the pack out of the can.  I was able to remove the original wires fairly easily.  In the past with these capacitor packs, I often put them on a small PCB.  But this one was a pretty straightforward series connection, with a couple taps in between caps.  So I found i could lay them all side by side, zip tie them together, solder the leads together, and then reattach the original wires to them.
   

I then took the whole thing, wrapped it up in parchment paper (I figure that makes a decent insulator, considering is coated with silicone) folded the back end up and taped it to make a pouch, and slid it back in the can.  The original pack had a ground wire soldered to the side of the can.  But It only grounds through 2 litttle spring clips, and I'm not sure how much I trust that.  So I ran a ground wire from the new pack I made out under the chassis and soldered it to a ground lug on a near by bakelite block.

The parts in the rear/audio section took me a bit longer than I anticipated.  They shoved a fair amount of crap back there, and there was also a loom of wires laying right over everything.  I couldn't take pictures to work off, because it was so cramped and I couldn't get a good angle.  So I had to draw out my own little diagram and tracing what went where before even starting to work.  Putting the new caps in was a little easier given their smaller size.

Tomorrow I have some things i need to do inthe morning, then sit down and watch the Packer game.  Tomorrow afternoon/evening I'll take the rest of the "tower" off the front, so I can work on getting the RF chassis out to work on.  Just the thought of that section is making me nervous.  I was second guessing my work on the audio section as it is.  That RF section looks like an even bigger mess.


Messages In This Thread
Starting 37-116 Deluxe Restoration - by Nick3092 - 08-28-2014, 11:49 AM
RE: Starting 37-116 Deluxe Restoration - by morzh - 08-28-2014, 01:46 PM
RE: Starting 37-116 Deluxe Restoration - by morzh - 08-28-2014, 02:43 PM
RE: Starting 37-116 Deluxe Restoration - by morzh - 08-28-2014, 05:53 PM
RE: Starting 37-116 Deluxe Restoration - by Nick3092 - 10-12-2014, 12:45 AM
RE: Starting 37-116 Deluxe Restoration - by morzh - 10-11-2014, 07:40 PM
RE: Starting 37-116 Deluxe Restoration - by morzh - 10-12-2014, 09:22 PM
RE: Starting 37-116 Deluxe Restoration - by morzh - 10-14-2014, 07:31 PM
RE: Starting 37-116 Deluxe Restoration - by morzh - 10-17-2014, 03:56 PM
RE: Starting 37-116 Deluxe Restoration - by morzh - 10-18-2014, 02:05 PM
RE: Starting 37-116 Deluxe Restoration - by morzh - 10-18-2014, 07:18 PM
RE: Starting 37-116 Deluxe Restoration - by morzh - 10-18-2014, 07:36 PM
RE: Starting 37-116 Deluxe Restoration - by morzh - 10-18-2014, 10:16 PM
RE: Starting 37-116 Deluxe Restoration - by morzh - 10-19-2014, 07:38 PM
RE: Starting 37-116 Deluxe Restoration - by morzh - 10-29-2014, 09:12 PM
RE: Starting 37-116 Deluxe Restoration - by gvel - 11-02-2014, 06:52 PM



Users browsing this thread: 9 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
6TPZ and 5TPO Radio Help
Since these radios operated in harsh environments (temp changes and vibration) you could touch a soldering iron to all t...GarySP — 03:18 PM
6TPZ and 5TPO Radio Help
Thank you Gary. Hi Morzh. These radios are 6 transistor radios. Sadly no tubes. Thanks though.R3Sons — 02:19 PM
Heathkit Sweep Generator TS-4
Ron Instead of Quick reply, go to New Reply, then go to the title of the very first post, and change the title text the...morzh — 02:00 PM
6TPZ and 5TPO Radio Help
I am not a specialist in car radios. I suspect they might use vibrators to convert 12V to acceptable tube voltages, so ...morzh — 01:58 PM
6TPZ and 5TPO Radio Help
Welcome to the Phorum, R3Sons! I have very limited experience with car radios other than installing custom radios back ...GarySP — 01:08 PM
462ron
OK, I need to rename this thread to say..Eico 368 TV/FM Sweep Generator instead of the current title..Heathkit Sweep Gen...462ron — 12:49 PM
6TPZ and 5TPO Radio Help
Hello, I have a Philco (Ford) 6TPZ and a 5TPO radio.  I replaced the electrolytic capacitors in both.  I have the SAMS m...R3Sons — 12:29 PM
The list of my radio & TV collection!
Hello Peter, Thank you for posting that !! Sincerely Richardradiorich — 09:40 AM
Eico 232 VTVM Schematic
It's a microwave antenna. ?;-p?. I substituted 1N4002s off the 6.3 vac winding for the 1.5 volt battery. Uniprobe is the...RodB — 05:50 PM
Eico 232 VTVM Schematic
Try BAMA for a schematic. Looks like a replacement power source for the D battery has been installed. The tube may be...Chas — 04:51 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 9027 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 9026 Guest(s)
Avatar

>