01-08-2009, 01:10 PM
Hi Jim,
After so many hints for buffing Bakelite, I will add my 2 cents to the subject. The method I use is very simple, uses little if any tiresome hand rubbing, and turns out a better than factory finish. This method is a bit more expensive, but is reusable over and over again. I have found that Bakelite can be brought back to better that original brilliance by using cotton buffing wheels of various grades between course and soft. A motor driven arbor is used to drive the cotton buffing wheel. Sears sold arbors at one time, but I have not seen their catalog in a long time. Or, the free end shaft of a motor can be adapted to mount the buffing wheel. Buffing arbors (without a motor) can be found on Ebay or Google as: âbuffing arborsâ for an internet search. It is important that the arbor axle have bearings, have a v-pulley wheel on it, and be mounted on a cast iron stand. Double ended arbor buffing heads are available and provide for different grade buffers on each end or a wire wheel can be used on the other end. Power driven wheels must be anchored to something stout because some pressure will be put on the piece and the wheel canât be allowed to move around. Most all buffing products are available on the internet and I have found Eastwood products have done well for me. A catalog is available at (Eastwood.com). There are numerous articles written on the precautions of avoiding disasters while buffing anything on a spinning wheel. Basically, a very firm grip on the piece to be buffed is absolutely necessary at all times without a moment or pause in attention to the task at hand. Just one lapse in attention and the piece will be thrown out of the hands in most any direction, usually crashing to the floor. Always buff in a direction that avoids edges. Buffing into an edge will cause the wheel to bite into the piece and attempt to grab it out of grasp. Eye protection, a mask, and gloves are necessary. I have found that the Bakelite case need not be washed and rinsed to get the grunge off before buffing, unless there is an unusual amount of dirt or oil/grease contamination. A small amount of plastic buffing compound is applied to the spinning wheel. The piece is brought to the wheel and using a light pressure the buffing action will start to clean and polish the Bakelite. The plastic compound will need to be replenished on the wheel as the polishing continues. When the wheel fills with dirty compound and crud, it will need to be cleaned and fluffed while turning with a buff rake. There is no method to tell when the job is complete and whether further buffing will produce a better result. But the buffing wheel must be kept clean. Your eye and judgment is the best method.
After so many hints for buffing Bakelite, I will add my 2 cents to the subject. The method I use is very simple, uses little if any tiresome hand rubbing, and turns out a better than factory finish. This method is a bit more expensive, but is reusable over and over again. I have found that Bakelite can be brought back to better that original brilliance by using cotton buffing wheels of various grades between course and soft. A motor driven arbor is used to drive the cotton buffing wheel. Sears sold arbors at one time, but I have not seen their catalog in a long time. Or, the free end shaft of a motor can be adapted to mount the buffing wheel. Buffing arbors (without a motor) can be found on Ebay or Google as: âbuffing arborsâ for an internet search. It is important that the arbor axle have bearings, have a v-pulley wheel on it, and be mounted on a cast iron stand. Double ended arbor buffing heads are available and provide for different grade buffers on each end or a wire wheel can be used on the other end. Power driven wheels must be anchored to something stout because some pressure will be put on the piece and the wheel canât be allowed to move around. Most all buffing products are available on the internet and I have found Eastwood products have done well for me. A catalog is available at (Eastwood.com). There are numerous articles written on the precautions of avoiding disasters while buffing anything on a spinning wheel. Basically, a very firm grip on the piece to be buffed is absolutely necessary at all times without a moment or pause in attention to the task at hand. Just one lapse in attention and the piece will be thrown out of the hands in most any direction, usually crashing to the floor. Always buff in a direction that avoids edges. Buffing into an edge will cause the wheel to bite into the piece and attempt to grab it out of grasp. Eye protection, a mask, and gloves are necessary. I have found that the Bakelite case need not be washed and rinsed to get the grunge off before buffing, unless there is an unusual amount of dirt or oil/grease contamination. A small amount of plastic buffing compound is applied to the spinning wheel. The piece is brought to the wheel and using a light pressure the buffing action will start to clean and polish the Bakelite. The plastic compound will need to be replenished on the wheel as the polishing continues. When the wheel fills with dirty compound and crud, it will need to be cleaned and fluffed while turning with a buff rake. There is no method to tell when the job is complete and whether further buffing will produce a better result. But the buffing wheel must be kept clean. Your eye and judgment is the best method.
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