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Ordered 154E inductance by Hammond; cheap enough, and when order 2, the shipping no longer becomes 2/3 or the price of the item.
Amazon sells it for someone else. Unfortunately, the shipping is not free on this one, even for Prime members.
Anywho.
Need to restuff the capacitors can.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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Have rebuilt the can.
The can had 4 caps in it, 2x16uF, 10uF and 8uF.
I used a 15uF as the first cap, 22uF and 10uF as the two secondary after chokes, and another 10uF as the cathode feedback for the output tube.
The can is this
Took two heatgun to loosen the contents.
This is it rebuilt.
I installed it back, need to slder the rest of the wires, but it will have to wait as I need to clean that mess in there before I put everything back.
I also installed the choke. It is half-size of the original. I ordered 700 Ohm resistor to add up to bring it to 2200 ohm.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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Hi Mike, the radio is coming along nicely but wow, you must have some serious moisture in your shop judging by the amount of rust on your chassis jig!
Ron
Bendix 0626. RCA 8BX5. RCA T64
Philco 41-250. Philco49-500
GE 201. Philco 39-25
Motorola 61X13. Philco 46-42 Crosley 52TQ
Philco 37-116. Philco 70
AK 35 Philco 46-350
Philco 620B. Zenith Transoceanic B-600
Philco 60B. Majestic 50
Philco 52-944. AK 84
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Ron
Here are the two of my jigs side by side. They have been with me about the same time (a couple of month difference possibly) and have been kept on the same shelf of the same stand all this time.
As you can see, they look fairly different. The bigger jig (I have just pulled it to put in the picture) look way bettrer, and has one dark spot which is, BTW, black, not brown, which indicates some different type of reaction. I guess, different type of steel.
This said, the rust is very superficial, no pitting.
The moisture in the workshop has never been really high, and now is even lower since they put the french drain, and after having faild to stop weeping, they also put a vapour barrier around.
Also I moved stereo out of the adjacent room with dehumidifier, which I kept close to keep the dehumidifier serving only that room, and now I have it open and it serves both that room and the workshop.
Also in the winter it is dried up by heating during the nighttime (the firnace is there, and so is a register in both roome), and in the summer by A/C, also during the night time (the cats live there, so they are locked during the night and so I run the furnace/AC).
But this said, in the workshop there have been no musty smell, I do not see anything else rusting/decomposing; this one was the only piece that showed the rust.
The only smell that is present in my basement is the smell of cardboard boxes, and I recently got rid of half of them (remember, I wrote about dealing with mice activity this August?), so it became much less pronounced.
Anywho, there is not anything superbad there. Green nefarious goo no longer drips on me off the ceiling, when I work there
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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Hello mike,
My Stand also has some very minor rust too and mine is used inside my heated house .
Sincerely Richard
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That is strange for there to be that much difference between those to jigs of raw steel! I know my basement has caused a slight rust coating on some of my carpentry tools, hand tools and table saw. I have moved my radio shop upstairs to my sons old bedroom just because it’s much warmer in winter. Gotta watch for the green goo
Ron
Bendix 0626. RCA 8BX5. RCA T64
Philco 41-250. Philco49-500
GE 201. Philco 39-25
Motorola 61X13. Philco 46-42 Crosley 52TQ
Philco 37-116. Philco 70
AK 35 Philco 46-350
Philco 620B. Zenith Transoceanic B-600
Philco 60B. Majestic 50
Philco 52-944. AK 84
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Ron
I have all my tools in the same shop, in the open, anything from spanners and screwdrivers to chiesels, pliers, drill bits etc.
None has it. Except one big old flat screwdriver, which is not rusted but pitted a bit, and I got it that way, long before moving in this place.
Dunno. A mystery.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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These are my tools, have been in the shop for years.
This is the tip of that screwdriver.
It was given to me when I was 9.
The damage is from shortin 220V.
The vise is also from my childhood, given to me by my grandpa. Obviously, it has patina. But no rust.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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I've cleaned that stuff, the "rendered" wire cloth stuck to other wires and the chassis. The previous photo is at the Page 2.
After that I replaced a couple wires that seemed affected, and then put back some tubular caps.
Then I put together the filament dropper network, that is the cap 8.2uF and 16 Ohm resistor (for pilot lights), installed the power cord.
I am waiting for the 700 ohm resistor to come, as it needs to be in series with the choke, and then the last tubular cap, when I decide how I handle the battery circuit.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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Hello mike,
Wow the radio chassis is coming right along !
Sincerely Richard
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Mike;
I have a screwdriver much like yours, I used it to discharge a 160 uf 330 volt photoflash capacitor, and it melted a chunk out of it. I use a wire would resistor to discharge caps now. When I was 9 or 10 I too popped the main breaker in the house, hooked up a plug on a power cord and shorted the wires together, vaporizing the copper wire into shiny metal balls, and soot.
Regards
Arran
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FWIW:
Most energy storage capacitors should not be directly shorted. Discharged by a suitable power resistor. Such an energy dump can cause disassociation of metalizing or opening an internal link to the terminals. The separation of metalizing can cause noise issues in sensitive circuits as these isolation's of metalizing connect and disconnect randomly.
Pliny the younger
“nihil novum nihil varium nihil quod non semel spectasse sufficiat”
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Energy storage capacitor of 330uF would have a time constant of 0.33s using 1kOhm resistor.
The power would be about 14W.
A 2-3W 1k resistor would do the job quickly and without much sparking.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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It was a 160 uf 330 volt cap, and I did this when I was in the 11 th grade, quite an impressive amount of energy stored in something like that, it sounds like a pistol shot when you do it too. It came out of a disposable camera with a flash, the flashes are xenon and they use a simple solid state invertor to step up the 1.5 volts of a AA cell to several 100 volts stored in a 330 volt electrolytic cap, which is discharged into the flash tube when you hit the shutter.
Regards
Arran
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Quoted Arran "have a screwdriver much like yours, I used it to discharge a 160 uf 330 volt photoflash capacitor, and it melted a chunk out of it. ... When I was 9 or 10 I too popped the main breaker in the house...vaporizing the copper wire into shiny metal balls, and soot.
I have a wood auger that looks like that after hitting a hidden wire.
When I was 10, while playing with a washing machine motor that failed to start, I didn't just trip a breaker, I caused the Great Blackout of 1965! (According to Mom.)
@Morzh, If trick or treating, dont let Green Goo get you ![Icon_mrgreen Icon_mrgreen](https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif) !!!
"Do Justly, love Mercy and walk humbly with your God"- Micah 6:8
"Let us begin to do good"- St. Francis
Best Regards,
MrFixr55
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