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Philco 50-T702
#16

I see JustRadios has the .0047uf 6Kv caps. Are there any other suppliers?

Thanks.

Crist
#17

Glad you found that bad solder point. That surly would have been the source of an intermittent, and may be the reason it got retired before enough use to require a bunch of replacement parts, and explain the very good picture tube.

If I could find the place called "Somewhere", I could find "Anything" Icon_confused

Tim

Jesus cried out and said, "Whoever believes in me , believes not in me but in him who sent me" John 12:44
#18

(03-31-2016, 01:59 PM)Madmurdok Wrote:  Glad you found that bad solder point. That surly would have been the source of an intermittent, and may be the reason it got retired before enough use to require a bunch of replacement parts, and explain the very good picture tube.

You might be right!

I ordered all the parts today.  All the resistors, the HV, film, and /mica caps. 

Now I can get started on it for reals!

Crist
#19

Crist, I would not replace any of the mica or ceramic caps until after you have replaced all the others and the resistors you are replacing, and tested the set. These small value caps are used in tuning circuits for the RF sections and for the oscillators. Changing them will throw off the current alignment and require complete realignment of the set. If you leave them alone, you may find it comes up working fairly close right off to bat. And those type caps very rarely go bad, one of those things best left alone unless some real reason to suspect they are bad.
#20

Mike,

Yes, I plan on replacing the filter caps, the HV caps and resistors first. Then the other e-caps and film caps. Some of the resistors will be replaced because it will convienent when I redo the caps. The Micas, there are only 3 of them will be replaced when the set is working very well.

While waiting for my parts to arrive, I cleaned up the underside of the chassis where some of that Philco black wax had leaked onto some wires and into some of the adjustment pots. It was all cleaned up along with all the back side pots. I also replaced some paper caps and some resistors that I had on hand.

[Image: http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458...ohehy4.jpg]

[Image: http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458...gqlysv.jpg]

Crist
#21

  I won't change the Mica's,,oldie's are good for long time,,just keep the HEAT off of them,,use heat sinks
#22

(04-06-2016, 06:48 PM)Kenneth F. Besso Jr. Wrote:    I won't change the Mica's,,oldie's are good for long time,,just keep the HEAT off of them,,use heat sinks

Hmmm, first time I heard this.  I'll try to remember that.  Thanks.

Crist
#23

Never heard of heatsinks for micas either.
On most of theses electrostatic deflection sets (ones that use 7JP4's and the like) there are several high value 1/2w resistors connected to the HV/focus control. They are always way out of spec. Cause poor focus issues. duh
The 6kv defection caps should be replaced with mylar caps. You may be able to find ceramic disk caps but they tend to drift in value (heat up) do to the presents of rf energy and cause issues.
Looks like it's coming along nicely!
Terry
#24

(04-06-2016, 09:56 PM)Radioroslyn Wrote:  Never heard of heatsinks for micas either.
On most of theses electrostatic deflection sets (ones that use 7JP4's and the like) there are several high value 1/2w resistors connected to the HV/focus control. They are always way out of spec. Cause poor focus issues. duh
The 6kv defection caps should be replaced with mylar caps. You may be able to find ceramic disk caps but they tend to drift in value (heat up) do to the presents of rf energy and cause issues.
Looks like it's coming along nicely!
Terry

Terry,
Yes, all of the high value 1/2w and 1w resistors will be replaced before power is applied.  The 6Kv deflection caps are being replaced with a high quality ASC X675-.0047-10-6000 tubular axial caps.  I'm still tryin to get the same caps only in 2Kv and 2 different values for the other 1Kv and 1.6Kv caps.  I have some Panasonic "Chicklet" brown caps on order to replace those if I can't get the ASC brand.

There will be no ceramic disc caps used.

Thank you.

Tonight I started to remove the all of the E-Caps that are in cans to prepare them for re-stuffing.  My E-Caps should be here tomorrow for the cans.  I'll be busy for a few days doing those and getting them back into the chassis.

Crist
#25

<There will be no ceramic disc caps used.
Just don't want you to get the wrong Idea, disk caps are great for bypassing rf. It just depends on the application.

Terry
#26

come on,,you know-----when soldering on same LUG (Terminal ),,Cheers
#27

When it comes to ceramic or mica caps, I don't replace them until I know they are bad, after the first testing. They usually hold up very well. When replacing, I will use ceramic or mica to replace ceramic, as long as it is the proper voltage rating or above, but stick with mica to replace mica.
#28

The rest of my orders came in so I'm tackling the filter E-Caps and the high voltage sections which consist of the HV cage and the HV board underneath the chassis.

I first did the HV Cage then followed by the HV board. I still have to install the HV board. I'll install the HV cage just before I power it up. With it off it makes working on the chassis a lot easier.

[Image: http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458...ufrydq.jpg]

[Image: http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458...j5xjlw.jpg]

[Image: http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458...ipjx1h.jpg]

[Image: http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458...dcvvy1.jpg]

Crist
#29

Looking good Crist! Keep plugging away! Icon_wink

If I could find the place called "Somewhere", I could find "Anything" Icon_confused

Tim

Jesus cried out and said, "Whoever believes in me , believes not in me but in him who sent me" John 12:44
#30

Beautiful job, Crist. The pictures are wonderful. I am really enjoying your thread. I look forward to seeing the set come alive again. Keep up the good work !




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