Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 19X restoration
#1

I'm working on my first restoration, which is on a model 19x I picked up a few weeks ago.  The previous owner said the radio worked, but before I powered it on I took the chassis out to clean and inspect.  I also ordered the schematics from Chuck with plans to replace any faulty capacitors.  As I was going through the schematic, I noticed that there was several parts on the radio that were not shown in the schematic.  Looking in the change notes and from Ron's post on the evolution of the model 19 (http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=15008) I was able to identify one of these parts which was added later on (a resistor).  However, I have identified three capacitors that are not in the schematic or in the change notes.  All three of these capacitors are in different locations but are connected to the lugs on the original bakelite capacitors.

- 2 Aerovox caps; molded paper with unknown capacitance value.  The cap is molded in a brown plastic, with only 1 Orange dot.  The dot is in the location of the 3rd dot in the normal 3 dot color coding scheme.  

- 1 Solar cap; paper cap of .09 uF

This leads me to my questions:

1) Is it possible that these caps were added after the radio was manufactured? Possibly by someone attempting to repair the radio? I figured Philco would use a Philco capacitors since this site lists part numbers for capacitors (http://www.philcorepairbench.com/partinfo.htm).  My guess is that the capacitors in the bakelite casing have shorted so they may have added these "replacement" capacitors on the outside of the casings???

2) How do I interpret the Aerovox capacitor color code with only one dot? Is it possible that the first two dots are to be interpreted as brown? I also looked for any markings on the case.  It only says, "AEROVOX", "PATENTED", "MADEINUSA", and "MFD.".

I apologize if this issue has been raised before.  I searched through the other threads with no luck. The information on this site has been tremendously helpful thus far, so thank you.

Van
Falls Church, VA
#2

Welcome to the Phorum!
Icon_wave

Yes indeed, those extra caps are the result of a past repair. Repair guys often just tacked those into the circuit without removing the old caps. Sometimes they even did that with the electrolytic caps. No need to interpret the Aerovax color code, just restuff that bakelite block with the caps that are in the schematic and take the extra caps off. Its pretty easy to stuff those bakelites. There are several tutorials; including at this LINK. I usually completely unsolder and pull them to make it easier to clean them up but as the link shows, you don't have to in many cases.
#3

I was about to say the same: Philco used Philco-marked caps, so instead of interpreting the code of a cap that might even not be of the same value it was intended to replace, just see what backelite (or other) cap it is parallelled to, find it on the sch and follow with restuffing the backelite cap with the appropriate value new part.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#4

Hi Van and welcome,
The only thing I'll add is that some values of the caps aren't being made any more like the .09mfd (don't think I've ever seen one of these). Common replacement value is .1mfd. Same with resistors. I was recently working on a set that the schematic showed a 100k resistor, so I was looking for a brown black yellow one. Couldn't find it but did find a white white orange (990K). It was original to the set. Some of these things can be a little confusing.
On the tag that has the model # on it there will code # like 121 or 122 this code will help you find the proper info for that particular chassis. Think there where 3 or 4 different codes for model 19/89.
Got a 19 myself that's due for an overhaul. It's like this one:
  http://www.philcoradio.com/gallery/1933a.htm#d

GL

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#5

As Terry said 0.1uF works perfectly well as a replacement for 0.09uF - but you can actually buy 0.09uF caps if it's more aesthetically pleasing to you. Icon_smile

http://www.justradios.com/cart.html actually sells 0.09uF value caps - and other odd values.
#6

Hey everyone, thanks for the replies.  Ok that is good to know.  I will remove the after market capacitors and replace them with new caps as specified by the schematic.  If I can't find the exact values I need, I'll use values that are close.

I'll most likely have more questions along the process, which I'll post here.

Thanks again everyone. Attached is a pic of the radio. My wife has started some of the restoration of the cabinet but it was in pretty good shape when I found it. 

Van
Falls Church, VA


Attached Files Image(s)
   
#7

Oh yeah....this is the only 90nF cap sold by Mouser.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Keme...fh4g%3d%3d

Surprisingly, not expensive.
But very poorly suited for backelite stuffing.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#8

Oh oh you mean the 90,000 mmfd condenser or the .09 mfd. It's a wu#%sy cap any way a dinky 250v job.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#9

> but it was in pretty good shape when I found it.

I'm not quite sure how to take that? Icon_rolleyes [Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...on_lol.gif]    She may want to tread lightly on it. Sometimes a light cleaning with 000 steelwool and GOJO w/o pumice will make a big improvement. A little J&J paste wax afterword to give it a bit of a shine.

  

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry




Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Restoring Philco 96
Have just aligned it. Surprisingly, it was not that much off at all. Barely. Aligning TRF sets is pure pleasue, as ther...morzh — 07:52 PM
6TPZ and 5TPO Radio Help
1 - 0v - correct 2 - 0v - correct 3 - 0v - --------------------- both 3 and 4 should be the same. Check L2 for being ope...morzh — 05:15 PM
B&K 1077B no video
I'm going to get back into it tonight. but I disconnected the 2 main resistors off this supply going to different parts ...TV MAN — 04:04 PM
6TPZ and 5TPO Radio Help
Sorry. The test points are as follows: 1 - 0v 2 - 0v 3 - 0v 4 - 12v 5 - 0v 6 - 11.9v 7 - 12v 8 - 12v 9 - 12v...R3Sons — 02:09 PM
6TPZ and 5TPO Radio Help
OK, so 18 and 19 as they should be. What is "everything else?" Try to be more specific in your descriptions:...morzh — 12:44 PM
6TPZ and 5TPO Radio Help
Yeah, I'm still on 5TPO. Sorry, my bad, points 1 and 2 should be points 18 and 19 (easy mistake  :think: )  X7 is shown ...R3Sons — 11:42 AM
Philco 40-120C Filament Wiring
Hi folks, I'm in the process of restoring a Philco 40-120C and I'm finding the wiring to be a bit puzzling. According to...bluecap — 11:28 AM
462ron
Hi Levi, here’s just a thought. Most radios run the oscillator higher than the dial setting. Say you set your radio to 1...462ron — 10:10 AM
1930s Stewart-Warner Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
Another Update: I found a couple of damaged coils inside this radio that might have something to do with why this radio ...captainclock1988 — 10:51 PM
6TPZ and 5TPO Radio Help
If you are still on 5TPO, you lost me there. What X7? What Points 1 and 2?morzh — 08:37 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 4329 online users. [Complete List]
» 3 Member(s) | 4326 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatarAvatar

>