[TA Forbes]

You should use a sealer before applying the toner.

There are several ways to spray the dark color. But whatever you do use the ultra-classic dye-based toners, as they will pass the wood grain better.

I like to spray the entire set with the lighter color toner, then spray several light coats of the darker toner until I am satisfied with how it looks.

For your set I would recommend universal walnut for the darker portions of the cabinet. You are not after an opaque finish, but rather one that looks very dark in dimmer light but allows you to see the wood grain in bright light.

VanDyke walnut is ok too, but will lend a "violet" tone when under bright light. The universal walnut is more brown in nature.

[Bob Andersen]

Thanks for the tips. I used Constatines walnut grain filler and Deft lacquer sanding sealer before the Mohawk medium brown walnut toner lacquer.
The trim sure looks like opaque black to me. Both in the remains before I stripped it and reference photos of other 60MBs. Also, the original ad describes it as black. Why would you want to see the cheap secondary plywood laminations through the toner ?

[Image: http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2835/87868...2bf2_c.jpg]

[Ron Ramirez]

Sorry, Tom, but I have to side with Bob on this one. The trim was black, and Philco even said so in their ads, so I say use the black lacquer.

Did you guys know that there are some 1941 and 1942 Philco cabinets with trim that appears to be black, but isn't? More details when I find a can of the Mohawk color that matches it...I don't remember the name of it at present, but I have some at home.

[jph14]

Just rechecked my 60- definitely the trim was black.
Joe

[TA Forbes]

Oopsie!

[Bob Andersen]

Let the masking begin!
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8267/89304...8ded_c.jpg]

[Bob Andersen]

I finished off the masking and proceeded to spray on the black.
[Image: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5464/89486...be63_c.jpg]

All was well until I got to this area and fisheyes appeared. I'll sand it down, apply more sealer and try again.
[Image: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3820/89492...8e21_c.jpg]

[Bob Andersen]

Hurray! I was able to clear up the fisheyes and finish the black trim
That just leaves applying a few coats of clear gloss and rubbing it out.
[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7352/89557...155f_c.jpg]

[Image: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5349/89545...95bf_c.jpg]

[Ron Ramirez]

Looks great!

[Steve Davis]

Very nice!

Steve

[Bob Andersen]

Argh! More fisheyes appeared on the front bottom left and right after I applied some gloss lacquer
I fear they will be tough to deal with since they go right through the toner layer. I may have to remove the lacquer from the front and start over. The sides and top are just fine.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8134/89655...e0a4_c.jpg]

[Bob Andersen]

I managed to wipe the lacquer off the front of the cabinet while not disturbing the black trim. Then I tried using some Deft lacquer sanding sealer, but it wrinkled too. So I rummaged through my finsihing supplies and came up with this Varathane universal sanding sealer. It's water based, odorless, easy to apply and dries clear in about an hour. I've brushed on several coats and it looks very promising.

[Image: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5483/91707...4dcf_b.jpg]

[PhilcoJohn]

Medium brown does look better. Bob it looks like you have a whole lot of radio cabinets in that room to tackle.. Keep us posted on this one it looks great.

[Bob Andersen]

Thanks. Yes, I also have a Philco 60L, 70L, 118MX, 37-611 and 37-690 to refinish. Also a Westinghouse WR8, Radiola 82 and Stromberg Carlson 231-R.

[Bob Andersen]

I think I can finally call this cabinet done!

It took a lot longer than I expected, but I learned a lot along the way
[Image: http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2848/92725...1295_c.jpg]