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Started on a 39-25 today. This will be my 7th radio (as I cut another notch into my workbench). The cabinet is pretty solid but coated in grime and some black goo on the top...but that's another thread.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/o44n153dotu9we....jpg?raw=1]
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/k9v5ssz3ennedi....jpg?raw=1]
It comes with the requisite mouse stash under the chassis...
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/fwt5txuj2c2q05....jpg?raw=1]
and mouse initiated rust on the top...
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/dwvdsc6huw2k4r....jpg?raw=1]
Its relatively clean underneath although there's obviously been work since two of the original electrolytic caps are missing and replacements tacked in along with a replacement for the wirewound resistor.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/vqfyha59ifgtbl....jpg?raw=1]
Will need to see what else is going on...this may take awhile. The good news...all the tubes test OK. The celluloid dial is in decent shape but dirty. I've read that the ink is water soluble so I have not tried to clean it other than wipe it with a dry artist brush and then dry Q-tips. Has anyone cleaned one of these successfully before? I believe a repro is available at RadioDaze. This should be fun!!
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Someone posted a thread that mineral spirits works well on these dial scales
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Usual thing: you can eat off of the inside part of eh chassis and someone else has already eaten from the top part, and did not clean the table.
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You got that right Morzh
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Am in the process of stripping the chassis down so I can deal with the rust on top.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/26s88sa2s2b3i0....jpg?raw=1]
...pulled the pushbutton assembly to better get at cleaning and lubricating the mech and found little rubber pieces on the pushbutton arm. They, of course, are now brittle and fall off. Does anyone have a replacement solution or do you just go without them? Thanks!
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/iezjbwnnmsuo8i....jpg?raw=1]
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Bob,
Good luck with your restoration. I'd like to follow along and learn as I've got a 39-30 that's going to need some attention.
I'll bet some Gojo would clean that cabinet up really nice.
Tom
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Thanks Todd, I'll keep posting. Check this thread out if you haven't already http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=4258 . Bob Andersen did a 39-30 and posted it on the Phorum. He also did a youtube on his bandersentv channel. First episode is here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPG-tZAAPzA
You'll need to do the pilot lamp fix that Ron discusses
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/i4mfw037hw2vw9....jpg?raw=1]
...and there's lots of rubber wire to replace including the power transformer:
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/0juk7upfnvxa5v....jpg?raw=1]
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/0038d1c4o1tp6l....jpg?raw=1]
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I had to undo the tuner stringing to be able to strip down the top of the chassis so here's my diagram for restringing (fingers crossed that I recorded it correctly) UPDATE: restrung it and it tuned OK, although I did use two (2) turns around the tuner shaft rather than one.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/7lpkpalmml6460....jpg?raw=1]
...so was able to clean up the tuner cap pretty well
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/52pwa9x9zmo39h....jpg?raw=1]
The bracket for the tuner cap has 4 rubber mounting washers and 4 metal inserts. The rubber in mine is still soft but I'll try to replace them since its apart. Renovated Radios doesn't seem to have the exact replacement but I expect something on there will work.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/tnxx8da7y49hru....jpg?raw=1]
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/98tq75qmjjkaba....jpg?raw=1]
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Bob,
Thanks for the information. I have seen Bandersen's restoration on You Tube. He did a really nice job. I'm still learning, so all the information I can get from different sources will be useful.
Tom
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I have restored a 39-35X that is one of my first and the favorite of my small collection. Decent sound but fabulously sensitive and selective especially on SW with just a long wire antenna. Reproduction dial scale from Radio Daze is spot on. Make sure to get the LONG red wine push buttons for 1939 models as the buttons for '40 and '41 are too short and won't work. I've also mounted a piece of clear flat glass behind the escutcheon instead of the usual plastic dial cover, same as a 40-180. Ron's page on call letter tabs is also very helpful. WARNING! If you clean the light socket assembly with contact cleaner, it will turn to mush and expect to have to do Ron's socket rebuild.
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Thanks for the advice shaler. My lamp socket was pretty degraded even without any help from contact cleaner, so I had to do the lamp fix.
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I'm in the process of taking the rust off the chassis and in the course of doing so I may lose the markings on the chassis. I'll recreate these later if need be, but was curious. Ron, or anyone, do you know what the "2-2" or perhaps its just "22" means on this 39-25?
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/az74c5psnbgrwp....jpg?raw=1]
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I have no idea. It could be a run number, but I would think Run 22 would be pretty high for a run number.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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The condition of the top of the chassis reminds me of the 40-201 chassis I restored recently. If the corrosion is not too deep you may be able to clean if up using a step process. I started with GoJo and a fine stainless steel wire brush because the corrosion on my set was so deep in places. Be careful of the tube sockets as wire brushes can scratch the surface of the bakelite plastic. Regular GoJo without any abrasive in it might be good as a starting point with a toothbrush with fine bristles. Mask off any trimmer capacitors underneath to keep cleaning compounds from getting into them. After a certain stage of cleaning I resorted to using some naval jelly to help clean out some pitted areas on top of the chassis. There are some alternate ways of dealing with the corrosion so look through other posts on this topic.
Joe
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